Egypt: Pyramids, Sunburn, and Mice on the Night Train

Jade Williams

Oct 26

4 min read

I went to Egypt in 2008 and I still remember it in embarrassing detail. The sunburn. The pyramids. The family of mice living in my armrest on the overnight train.

Egypt has changed a lot since then, especially for tourists, so this isn’t a throwback post. It’s my stories, plus what I’d tell you now if you were booking a trip with me.

I’d love to go back.

Cairo: loud, chaotic, and brilliant

Like everyone, we started in Cairo. It’s a lot.

The Pyramids of Giza: Yes, we went inside one of the smaller ones. You can pre-book entry to the Great Pyramid, but honestly? I liked it better from the outside. I grew up obsessed with mummies and I fully expected to love crawling through those tiny tunnels. Instead it felt weirdly rude, like wandering into someone’s bedroom 4,500 years after they moved in. The view from the outside is the one that got me.

The Egyptian Museum: I was glued to the Tutankhamun exhibits. All that gold, and the detail, and the “how is this real?” feeling. The old museum was dusty and a bit chaotic, like an archaeologist’s attic. The Grand Egyptian Museum is open now too, and it’s on my list for next time.

The overnight train to Luxor

Let’s talk about the train.

If you’re picturing Agatha Christie, please lower your expectations. By a lot. Ours had:

a family of mice living in my armrest ashtray
a toilet situation I still refuse to describe
delays

It’s better these days but still not luxury. If you do take it, pack food, water, tissues and patience. Or do what most people do now and fly. It’s quicker, cleaner, and nobody’s renting space next to your elbow.

Abu Simbel, the Valley of the Kings and the Nile

Abu Simbel at sunrise. We did the 3am convoy, long before it got easier. I was a zombie and it was totally worth it. Standing in front of Ramses II and Nefertari as the sun comes up is unreal.

Arriving at the Valley of the Kings by donkey. Donkeys are... enthusiastic. But rocking up to the Valley of the Kings on one makes you feel like you’ve fallen into another century.

I also once bribed a guy digging at the tomb of Seti III and ended up creeping down a dodgy, dimly lit shaft that was definitely not on my itinerary. Don’t do this. It’s not legal, and I’m a responsible travel advisor now.

The Nile cruise. I’d say a cruise between Luxor and Aswan is the best way to see Egypt. You get hot air balloons floating over the West Bank, a pink desert sunrise, and temples popping up around river bends like they’re saying hello. I couldn’t afford the balloon back then and watched them from the deck like a kid at a lolly shop window. It’s first on my list for next time.

Luxor and Karnak. Karnak is so huge you feel like an ant, and I love it. Still one of my favourite places anywhere. And yes, I got sunburnt again. Wear SPF 50. I’m begging you.

Sinai and the Red Sea

After heading back to Cairo (by train again, because apparently I learn nothing) we went to Sinai. My husband got up at 2am to hike it. I stayed behind because asthma and cigarette smoke don’t mix, and everyone in Egypt seems to smoke. His sunrise photos over the desert peaks and the monastery were gorgeous, and I’m still a bit jealous. One day I’ll do it properly.

The Red Sea. Calm, clear, and packed with bright little fish. The snorkelling was fantastic. I also tipped a young camel handler $20 and he chucked it on the ground in a huff. I picked it up, obviously. Ungrateful toad.

Would I go back?

100%. And I want my kids to see it.

Egypt has come a long way since 2008, with better infrastructure, upgraded museums, new hotels and easier logistics. But the heart of it hasn’t changed. It’s old, it’s human, and it makes you feel pretty small in the best way.

Egypt is sitting near the top of my “someday with the kids” list. That list is about 15 pages long, so that’s saying something.

If you’re planning Egypt now, here’s what I’d tell you

Fly between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan. The train is only for the committed, or anyone feeling nostalgic for rodent roommates.
Pre-book the big stuff. That means the Great Pyramid and the famous tombs in the Valley of the Kings.
Do a Nile cruise. It’s the most relaxing way to see it all.
Don’t skip Abu Simbel. It’s early and it’s a trek, but it’s worth it.
Pack sunscreen, electrolytes and comfy shoes. Egypt is stunning but tiring.
Brace yourself for Cairo. It’s loud and full-on, and you’ll never forget it.
Get a good guide. The stories hit differently when someone who knows them tells them.